The bees of Spring

by flowadmin | Jun 1, 2026 | Backyard Conservation, Pollinators, Wildlife

The bees of Spring

By Jamie Strange and Dante Centouri

As the snow disappears and the first flowers of spring are starting to push through the soil of Clintonville, you are likely seeing some bloom in your gardens or around the neighborhoods and parks.

And where you see flowers blooming, bees are never far behind. At this point you may be envisioning a European honey bee, which are certainly present in town, but Ohio is home to more than just honey bees. More than 400 species of native bees can be found in Ohio. Each species contributes the vital ecosystem service of pollination, critical for the health of our gardens, farms, and wildlands.

Spring beauty miner bee

While many of our bee friends are welcome guests on flowers, like our human friends, some arrive with… baggage. Every summer our lab gets numerous calls asking for help with carpenter bees that are nesting in structures, so we understand the balance between preserving biodiversity and maintaining property.

Early spring sees the emergence of several species of ground nesting bees that some people find problematic. Why? Because they build their nests in our lawns and gardens and this can be alarming.

The two types of early spring bees you are likely to see in Clintonville in the next few weeks are mining bees (genus Andrena) and polyester bees (genus Colletes) both of which can form large aggregations of nests in the right conditions.

Ground nesting cellophane bee

There is no need to panic, though, because most ground nesting bees are extremely docile, won’t hurt your landscape, and won’t bother you for long. These bees make solitary nests, not colonies. Each nest is composed of a small cavity in the soil lined with plant material, leaves, or a polyester secretion. The bee will then fill it with pollen for its larvae, lay an egg, and close up the cavity before digging a new hole and repeating the process. A single female may raise a half dozen or more offspring in this way. After three or four weeks of filling the nest with larvae, the adult bee will die leaving the larvae to develop under the ground for the next year.

The bees are not interested in you, only in raising their babies and collecting pollen. While the aggregations of some mining and polyester bees seem like a threat, most solitary native bees only sting if you force them to do so, by grabbing them or kneeling on them. Even when they do sting, they have only a fraction of the venom that honeybees do so the pain and risk of a severe reaction is much less.

Cellophane bee on winter aconite

There is no need to kill or relocate these bees because even the busiest aggregations are active for only a few weeks each spring. The benefits they bring to your garden and wildflowers far outstrip the risk they pose to you, your children, or your pets.

Whenever possible avoid disturbing the area but feel free to get up close and watch them work. You can learn more about these and other fascinating native bees here https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/ent-85.

Dr. Jamie Strange is professor at the Ohio State University in the Department of Entomology and directs the Bumble Bee Health and Genetics Lab and Dante Centouri is a PhD student in the lab working on bumble bee and solitary bee population conservation.

The Black Swallowtail Butterfly (Papilio polyxenes)

by flowadmin | Mar 31, 2026 | Backyard Conservation, Pollinators, Wildlife

by Olive Deja

What insect shoots orange horns out of its head like a dragon, stakes its territory like a wolf, and pollinates like a bee? The black swallowtail (Papilio polyxenes) of course! This marvelous butterfly in the Papilionidae (swallowtail) family is an important member of ecosystems in Ohio and beyond, pollinating wildflowers, providing food for birds and other predators, and attracting curious eyes to the beauty of the outdoors. It is also called the parsley worm, carrot worm, and celery worm (particularly in the larval stage, for its larval host plants.) Read on to learn more about host plants and other interesting black swallowtail facts.

Range and Habitat
The extensive range of the black swallowtail encompasses much of North and Central America, found from southern parts of Canada to northern parts of South America. In the United States, it ranges from the East Coast all the way to the Rocky Mountains. You’re likely to find it in open areas such as meadows, fields, parks, wetlands, and prairies.

Life Cycle and Description
Black swallowtail eggs are tiny, and pale yellow in color. They will turn a blackish brown just before hatching, and once hatched, the larva (caterpillar) is very small, and colored black and white. At this point, they can be easily mistaken for bird poop. As larvae molt and develop, they go through five stages, called instars. Once the larva reaches the fifth instar, it is around 2 inches (5 centimeters) in length, and has the characteristic black and green bands along its abdomen, with orange spots. In every instar, the larva is hiding a secret weapon against predators, the aforementioned orange “horns.” This is an organ called an osmeterium. When disturbed, the larva rears up and temporarily extends its osmeterium out of an opening in its head, accompanied by a foul odor to deter predators.

Black swallowtail caterpillar The chrysalis (pupa) can either be brown or green in color. In Ohio, it is very common for them to overwinter in this pupa stage, where they enter a period of dormancy during the harsh winter months, specifically when they develop their chrysalis in the fall. Otherwise, they will emerge from their chrysalis in just a few weeks. Once the butterfly emerges, its wings will be damp and very fragile, so it sits perched just outside the chrysalis for a few hours to dry. By the time it’s ready, it will fly away to find its mate and continue the cycle.

The adult (butterfly) stage is, like its name suggests, mostly a dark, black color. It has a wingspan of about 3–4 inches (8–10 centimeters.) Its abdomen is lined with yellow pinprick dots, and its scaly wings have two rows of yellow spots along the bottom edge, with a dusting of iridescent blue in between. Also found on the inside corners of the wings are two orange “bullseye” spots with black dots in the center. The underside of the wings are similar, but with rows of prominent orange spots on its hindwings. Females typically are larger than males and have more pronounced blue “dust” patches, while males tend to have more pronounced rows of yellow spots. This difference is called sexual dimorphism, which can be observed across the natural world.

Many other swallowtail species look quite similar to the black swallowtail, and can be confused for one another at first glance. Some examples of visually similar species you may come across in Ohio include the spicebush swallowtail, eastern tiger swallowtail, and the pipevine swallowtail.

Diet and Host Plants
Like other butterflies, adult black swallowtails feed on nectar from the flowers of plants such as thistles, milkweed, purple coneflower, clover, phlox, zinnias, and many other pollinator plants. They also seek out shallow puddles and moist ground to get salts into their bodies. Host plants are plants that specific insect species have selectively chosen as most suitable for raising their young. For example, female black swallowtail butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves and flowers of plant species in the carrot family (Apiaceae,) with parsley, dill, carrot leaves, and fennel being common garden hosts. Also some species in the citrus family (Rutaceae,) most notably common rue (Ruta graveolens.) These are good host plants for the black swallowtail since they provide food to the larvae and shelter them from weather, predators, and other dangers.

swallowtail after eclosing With over 122,000 total observations of the black swallowtail alone, this species falls within the top 150 for most observed species on iNaturalist as of 2026. Out of a total of 558,000 species recorded in the global online database, that puts the butterfly high on the charts of recognition, which is a great way that this attractive species supports efforts in habitat conservation.

Want to see some black swallowtails in action? Plant one of its host plants or an Ohio native wildflower to attract them to your area!

Sources

Mahr, Susan. “Black swallowtail, Papilio polyxenes.” University of Wisconsin-Madison, Division of Extension, Wisconsin Horticulture, https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/black-swallowtail-papilio-polyxenes/.

“Black Swallowtail Butterfly – Papilio polyxenes.” New Hampshire PBS, https://nhpbs.org/wild/karnerblackswallowtail.asp

Leahy, Chris. “Black Swallowtail.” Mass Audubon, https://www.massaudubon.org/nature-wildlife/insects-arachnids/butterfly-atlas/find-a-butterfly?id=15

“Black Swallowtail Butterfly.” Gardenia, https://www.gardenia.net/guide/black-swallowtail-butterfly

“Black Swallowtail.” iNaturalist, https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/58523-Papilio-polyxenes

Borgmann, Kathi and Rodewald, Amanda. “Extension Fact Sheet: Butterfly Gardens.”
The Ohio State University Extension, https://woodlandstewards.osu.edu/sites/woodlands/files/imce/0012.pdf

How can a used milk jug help birds and butterflies?

by Ellie Nowels | Feb 1, 2026 | Backyard Conservation, Pollinators, Wildlife

How can a used milk jug help birds and butterflies?

by Ellie Nowels

Most songbirds need soft bodied insects such as caterpillars to feed their young. A bird as small as a chickadee can use 6000 or more caterpillars to feed one brood! Most species of caterpillars require specific native plants to feed on. So how does a nature advocate successfully nurture enough native plants to fill these requirements?

Many gardeners are turning to an inexpensive way to propagate native plants without greenhouses or complicated indoor setups. Getting native plants to germinate is more complicated than starting traditional garden plants, since many native plant seeds require a period of cold and moist dormancy, called stratification. The length of time varies based on the species, ranging from 10 to 120 days or more. Milk jug germination (called “winter sowing”) is an easy and inexpensive way to start seeds outdoors, with the jugs acting as miniature greenhouses.

Why winter sow?

It’s much easier than trying to start native plants indoors.
Takes the guess work out of tracking days for cold moist stratification.
More species of native plants are available as seed than you will find at the nursery.
You will know exactly what plant is in your container when it germinates. (It can be difficult to identify plants at the seedling stage, making it easy to mistake your seedlings for weeds).
It’s inexpensive and produces strong, healthy plants.
Hardening off process is simpler (no carrying plants outside and back inside every day!)
Less potential for “damping off”.

When to Winter Sow

From the winter solstice (December 21) through February. Night temperatures in your area should be consistently lower than 50 degrees.

What seeds can be winter sown?

There are too many species that can be winter sown to list here! I confine my species to native perennials, mainly those needing stratification. Pick your favorites species and experiment! You can either purchase seeds or harvest them from your garden. Many organizations have seed swap events where you can obtain seeds and planting advice. The Seed Vault in Westerville also stocks seed for several native species.

Most native plants have just a simple need for a set number of days of cold moisture, so they are good candidates for winter sowing. A few species can just be sown in the spring when the ground warms up (Germination code A*) but they will also do well when winter sown.

Choosing a container

Milk jugs are not the only container that you can use. People use a variety of containers, from big salad containers to large storage boxes filled with soil or with individual pots; some even use resealable plastic bags hung from support rods. Some of us have found that clear, rather than translucent containers allow the seeds and seedlings to dry out too fast or get too hot. No matter what container you use, allow 3-4 inches of soil and enough room above the soil for the seedlings’ growth. Top coverings need enough holes punched for all the soil surfaces to stay moist.

Winter sowing diagram courtesy of Sandia Seed company

Thanks to Sandia Seed company for the use of this diagram.

How to winter sow

You will need a good potting mix, containers, and seeds. Also have something to label your containers, a sharp tool, and tape.

Containers will need drainage holes on the bottom. I use a 3/8” drill bit and space out 5-6 drain holes; others use a hot glue gun or knives to make the holes.
Using a knife or sturdy scissors, cut the jug almost in half, going about ¾ of the way around, leaving the handle intact as a hinge.
Remove the cap. The opening at the top should be sufficient to let in enough rain and snow to keep the soil moist.
Pack the bottom of the jug with 3-4 inches of dampened potting mix.
Scatter the seeds (one species per jug) on the soil. Many species will have germination codes* that say to “surface sow”; press those down into the damp soil but don’t cover them. Other seeds can be covered with a light sprinkling of soil.
Label the outside of the jug with the name of your plant, using a fade resistant Sharpie, and create a marker of some kind for the inside, too. Otherwise if your outside label fades, you may not know what’s growing! Write the name of the plant on the bottom of the jug too; this seems to be the most resistant to fading.
Close the jug and secure the top to the bottom. Many people use duct tape. Some others experiment with punching holes top and bottom and using twisty ties or pipe cleaners to hold the top and bottom together. The top and bottom need to fit together securely enough to form a tight seal.
Place your containers where they can have some sun, rain, and snow (not under an overhang). If your area is prone to high winds, tie the jugs together by their handles, or run a stake through the handles.

The edges of the raised bed keeps jugs from falling over.

Monitoring your containers

Periodically check for moisture levels, especially if it’s been a dry winter. Don’t water frozen soil, but on days above freezing, look for condensation in the container; if you see condensation it doesn’t need watering. If you do need to water, water gently (tilt the jug and water down the side of the jug, or use a spray bottle; just avoid pouring in water in ways that will disturb the seeds). You can also water from the bottom.
If there have been high winds, check to see if any have fallen over.
During unseasonably warm spells, you might need to open the jugs to keep seeds or seedlings from getting too hot. You can also move them into a spot that doesn’t get full sun.

When to open the containers and when to transplant the seedlings

When the seeds begin to sprout, then it’s time to open the containers. They will probably need some watering at this point. If there are cold snaps, shut the jugs up again or cover the jugs with sheets or other protection.

In spite of their protective containers, the seedlings will still need to be hardened off before transplanting. Take off the lid off the container for a couple of hours, every day for a few days, then do it all day for a few days up to a week or two before transplanting them. This will allow them to adapt to the strength of the unfiltered sun and breezes.

When the seedlings have 2 sets of “real” leaves or are 1” to 2” tall, it’s okay to transplant them into pots for more growth, or even into the garden. If you have many tightly packed seedlings, transplant them in bunches (“hunk of seedlings”method).

foxglove seedlings

This foxglove beardtongue is ready for transplanting using the “hunk of seedlings” method. Trying to transplant hundreds of individual seedlings would be impossible! But dividing out chunks of several seedlings keeps roots intact and will make for a nice group of plants. Water your container and let it drain. You want to remove the top of the container (if you are still using it) and then push on the bottom of the container to remove the entire soil ball. Lay it on the ground. Cut the soil and seedlings into smaller chunks (I cut them to fit my 2-inch pots). Water them with 1/4 strength of fertilizer of your choice. You can also separate the larger seedlings with a fork or spoon for repotting. No matter what, separate them out before the roots get too long for the pot.

*Stratification and germination codes

Germination codes tell growers how much stratification a species needs, along with any other requirements. Prairie Moon Nursery is a great resource – each plant has a germination code listed, and they provide a detailed explanation of those codes here: https://www.prairiemoon.com/how-to-germinate-native-seeds.html

Success! Winter sown plants on their way to a plant sale on Memorial weekend.

Sources:

Most info was taken from Winter Sowers – the Original – Facebook group. (Members do need to be approved to join, but then you will have access to their 7 sets of guides that cover many topics. A great resource!)

Some other sources for those not on Facebook; these cover the basics but are not necessarily focused on native plants and the stratification process).:

https://www.sandiaseed.com/blogs/news/winter-sowing (focused on vegetables, not natives, but covers the basics of the process)

https://getbusygardening.com/winter-sowing-faqs/

https://104homestead.com/winter-sow

https://ocean.njaes.rutgers.edu/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/Winter-Seed-Sowing-Handout-Final.pdf (covers basics, with links you can scan for more info).

Starting native seeds:

https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1329/ (not specifically about winter sowing, but covers seed saving from native plants and propagation)

Germination codes: https://www.prairiemoon.com/how-to-germinate-native-seeds.html

Homegrown National Park is a movement advocating for increasing biodiversity at home. Here’s their page on winter sowing.

Many gardening groups will hold workshops on winter sowing during winter. Check out https://wildones.org/ or other environmental/gardening groups for classes.

Visit us at Arborfest!

by flowadmin | Aug 20, 2024 | Events, News, Pollinators, Recreation

Join FLOW at the first Columbus Arborfest!

FLOW is pleased to be part of the first ever Columbus Arborfest, Saturday August 24, 1-5, at Whetstone Park. There will be music, food, arts and crafts, tree tours, plant sales, yoga, giveaways…so many activities for the whole family! Stop by our booth on Arbor Avenue! More info at columbusarborfest.com

May 20 Webinar – Amber Fredenburg on creating habitat for our native ground-nesting bees

by flowadmin | Apr 29, 2024 | Backyard Conservation, Pollinators, Wildlife

Amber Fredenburg

Amber Fredenburg is working on her degree in PhD in Evolution, Ecology and Organismal Biology (EEOB). She is pursuing research to identify the resources that attract ground-nesting bees so we can provide nesting sites for these species in places where their habitats may be limited. She is conducting an experiment where she constructed plots with 5 treatments (bare ground, leaf litter, pebbles, mounded soil, and control) at 21 sites along an urban gradient to test the effect of both urbanization and surface soil substrates. Several of these sites are within areas maintained by FLOW, so we are excited to hear about the results. Her findings should help us increase habitat in our own spaces for these important pollinators.

One of Amber’s sampling sites

This webinar will be recorded. Please register at the link. The time is 6:00 – 7:00 pm, EDT, Monday, May 20, and there will be time for your questions.

One of her favorites is this Melissodes desponsus, a long-horned bee